Wow. What a way to close a series. Yes, it is mostly Near and Light standing around talking at each other, but hasn't that been the entire series so far? For a series with a death toll in the thousands, there's been very little action. It's all been a giant chess match with Light. And of course, he loses. His reaction to his loss isn't really surprising, even though it's startling, and it's one of those times that I love reading comics/manga. The words and the art feed off each other to make a much bigger emotional impact than either could do alone. And I always thought, from the first volume, that Light's ultimate fate would be to have Ryuk write his name in his Death Note. I think at some point, Light started to think of Ryuk as his pet. But he told him at the beginning, he was just there for some entertainment. Even if he had won, I expect that Ryuk would have gotten bored eventually and written his name down anyways.
As a whole, Death Note is very wordy and spends most of its time in various characters' head spaces. It isn't action packed, and even though it's "only" 12 volumes, it's still a fairly significant investment in time and headspace. If an extended battle of wits with multiple players sounds appealing, I absolutely recommend it.