Food fraud has a long, still ongoing history. Bee Wilson tries to cover it, but there's only so much one can do. She ends up mostly covering the 19th and 20th centuries, which is fine by me. There's a lot to talk about here, from the early reformers who discovered that it was impossible to buy actual mustard in London to the modern version of food fraud. Wilson sees the modern tendency to overload everything with artificial flavors as a form of food fraud, and I tend to agree, after reading this. People are being trained to believe that raspberries taste like raspberry flavor (they don't, they taste much better) and become unable to understand what a real raspberry actually tastes like. The most sensational information is, of course, in the first few chapters, where we learn that red candy was once colored with the highly poisonous red lead. The candy makers knew they were poison, but the candies had to be red, didn't they? Highly absorbing, but not to be read around mealtimes.